Klein Tools FAQ: Pocket Screwdrivers, Fish Sticks, Impact Drivers, and Concrete Anchors

If you've ever had a call at 2 a.m. to a site with no lights and a breaker that won't reset, you know your tool bag decides everything. I run a small electrical repair company that handles emergency work for apartment buildings and industrial plants. In the last 12 years, I've learned to trust Klein Tools for most of my daily carry. Based on the questions I get from apprentices and other contractors, here's what I actually think about some of Klein's most talked-about products and a few general tool questions.

In this article:

• What makes Klein Tools different?
• Is the pocket screwdriver worth it?
• When do fish sticks help?
• Is the 20-in-1 impact driver set a good buy?
• Which concrete anchors for quick fixes?
• Impact driver vs drill – when to use each

1. What makes Klein Tools different from other tool brands?

Klein has been around since 1857 (per their website, kleintools.com, accessed April 2026). But the reason I carry them isn't nostalgia. Their tools are designed with input from people who actually work with electricity. For example, the handles on their insulated screwdrivers have a specific shape that gives good torque without tearing up your palm – that matters when you're wrestling with a stubborn panel cover.

I'll be honest: they're not the cheapest option. But when I'm on an emergency call, I can't afford a tool that slips or breaks. In my experience, Klein's quality is consistent. I've had the same pair of lineman's pliers for over a decade – not because I baby them, but because they don't need it.

2. Is the Klein Tools pocket screwdriver actually useful, or just a gimmick?

The Klein Tools pocket screwdriver (I'm thinking of the one with a pocket clip, like part number 3260) is one of those things that made me skeptical at first. It's small, light, and seems like a novelty. But after forgetting to bring a full screwdriver to a rooftop in July, I now have one clipped to my shirt every day.

Here's the thing: it's not your primary driver. It's for quick adjustments, terminal screws, and that awkward screw behind an outlet that you can't reach with a regular driver. The large handle? Actually, there isn't one – it's a slim profile. But that's exactly why it fits in places a chunky screwdriver won't. Trust me, once you've used it to tighten a loose neutral in a cramped junction box, you'll understand.

One caveat: don't use it as a pry bar or on high-torque applications. It's a precision tool, not a demolition tool.

3. What are Klein Tools fish sticks and when should I use them?

Fish sticks are basically fiberglass rods that screw together to push or pull wire through walls and conduits. The Klein set I have comes with a hook, a loop, and a few threaded sections. The rod is stiff enough to push through insulation but flexible enough to go around corners.

I pull wire every month, and fish sticks aren't for every job. For long straight runs, a fish tape is still faster. But when I have to navigate a wall with fire-blocking or a tight 90-degree bend, the fish sticks save me from poking holes in drywall. A couple weeks ago, I wired an emergency light through a ceiling that had heavy batts – the fish sticks were the only thing that got through without snagging. If you do low-voltage or lighting retrofits, these are worth the bag space.

4. What is the 20-in-1 impact driver set and is it worth it?

The Klein Tools 20-in-1 impact driver set is a compact kit that includes a driver body and a bunch of interchangeable bits and adapters. I grabbed one because I was tired of digging through a pouch full of loose bits. What you get is essentially one 1/4-inch hex holder with a size chart etched on it and a case that keeps everything together.

Is it worth it? For emergency work, yes. It covers Phillips, flathead, Torx, square, and hex sizes, plus a couple of socket adapters. I've used it to swap a motor capacitor on a rooftop AC unit and to tighten conduit straps – both without carrying a separate bit case. The bits themselves are decent, but I'll swap out the most-used ones with Klein's heavy-duty insert bits when they wear. If you mostly work with a few common sizes, the 20-in-1 is convenient; if you need every size under the sun, you'll still need a full bit set.

5. What are the best concrete anchors for rapid installations?

In a hurry, my go-to for concrete is a Tapcon-style screw anchor. It's a hardened steel screw with threads that tap into a drilled hole of a specific size. No setting tool, no expansion anchor to wrestle with – you drill, blow out the dust, and drive the screw. For light to medium loads (think conduit straps, junction boxes), it's the fastest permanent solution I know.

If the load is serious – like a piece of heavy equipment – I'll use a wedge anchor. But those require more precise torque and longer cure time? No, wedge anchors are mechanical, no cure. Still, they need a hammer and a torque wrench, which isn't ideal for a quick fix. So my rule: Tapcons for lighting, box hangers, and cable tray; wedge anchors for racks and machinery. And yes, I always carry a vacuum with a nozzle to clean the hole – concrete dust will make your anchor slip.

I used to carry both and analyze every mount; now I go with tapcon for most things and only bring the wedge anchors for known heavy loads.

6. When should I use an impact driver instead of a drill?

Here's the short answer: use an impact driver for driving screws, and a drill for making holes. But that's changed over the years. Impact drivers have gotten so good that with the right driver bits, I'll use one to drill through light steel studs. For most electrical work, the impact driver is my go-to for anything with a hex shank. It's got way more torque per pound than a drill, and the percussion action helps avoid stripping screw heads.

For concrete, though, you don't want a regular impact driver – you need a hammer drill or a rotary hammer. A standard impact driver just hammers in rotation, which does little for concrete. Some people try to use an adapter for drill bits, but the chuck holds by hex, and drill bits can vibrate loose. So my advice: use the impact driver for fasteners, use a drill for smooth holes, and save a hammer drill for masonry. Don't hold me to the exact year, but I recall making the full switch to impact drivers for everything except masonry around 2018.