Klein Tools Grips, Best Pliers, and the Right Hole Saw for 3/4 PVC

There isn't one single "best pliers" for every person, and if someone tells you there is, they probably haven't spent enough time on a job with the wrong tool in their bag. In my role coordinating electrical maintenance for industrial and commercial clients, I've handled more than 200 rush orders in eight years. That's the part people forget: a tool that looks great in the catalog can fail you at 5 p.m. on a Friday.

So instead of a generic "buy this" list, here's the decision tree I actually use.

Ask yourself three questions before you order anything:

• Are you working on electrical panels or anywhere near energized equipment? Start with insulated tools.
• Are you setting up a service truck for mixed contractor work? Your compressor decision is more important than your pliers decision.
• Are you running PVC conduit? The correct hole saw size for 3/4 PVC is the difference between a clean job and a second trip.

Scenario A: Electricians, Panel Work, and the Klein Tools 32717

If you do electrical work, the best pliers for you are the ones that fit your hand and have the right grip. That's why people keep coming back to Klein Tools grips. The term "Klein Tools grips" usually refers to the cushioned handles on their screwdrivers and pliers. It might sound like a small detail, but I've watched more than one pair of $150 cutters get thrown across a truck because the grips hurt after an hour of cutting.

The Klein Tools 32717 insulated screwdriver set is a good example. According to Klein Tools' official product literature, it's rated for 1000V AC. The bigger reason I keep it in my go bag is the grip: enough cushion to reduce fatigue, but not so soft that it rolls around in your palm. It's not the cheapest set, and it shouldn't be—the people who buy it are using it on live, or potentially live, equipment.

A lot of people assume expensive tools are better because they are expensive. Actually, it's the other way around: a tool that lasts can charge more because it prevents callbacks. In March 2024, a client called 36 hours before a scheduled shutdown and said their electrician had lost most of their insulated drivers. Normal distributor lead time was four days. I found a vendor 45 minutes away, paid $45 extra in rush fees on top of the $130 set, and had it on the tool bench by 6 a.m. Missing that deadline would have meant a $50,000 penalty clause. That's why I don't gamble on no-name electrical tools.

Bottom line for Scenario A: buy the Klein Tools 32717 or another manufacturer's equivalent, make sure the grip fits your hand, and keep a backup set in the truck. The cost is a rounding error compared to losing a night's sleep before a deadline.

Scenario B: Service Truck Buildouts and the Air Compressor 4HP 13 Gallon Question

If you're a general contractor, maintenance technician, or building a service truck, your priorities are broader. You don't need the perfect pair of pliers as much as you need a trusty air supply and a balanced tool kit.

That brings up the air compressor 4hp 13 gallon question. I have mixed feelings about 13-gallon tanks. On one hand, they're compact enough to mount under a pickup bed and light enough to install yourself. On the other hand, 13 gallons is not a lot of stored air. The tank size matters, but the CFM at 90 psi matters much more. A 4hp motor with a 13-gallon tank can handle brad nailers, finish nailers, and staplers all day. For a framing nailer, it's workable but the compressor will cycle often. For a die grinder, orbital sander, or any continuous-use tool, it's a red flag.

I learned this the expensive way. We put a 4hp 13 gallon compressor on a service truck after the sales guy said it could handle "almost anything." The first time we hooked up a small DA sander, the unit ran nonstop and still couldn't keep pressure. The job took twice as long. Now the rule is: if the tool is going to run for more than 10 seconds at a time, don't rely on a 13-gallon tank.

Does that mean the 4hp 13 gallon compressor is bad? No. It's a no-brainer for trim work and punch lists. But you need to match the air tool to the air supply. For continuous sanding, go cordless or rent a bigger compressor. That's not "old school vs. new school." That's just arithmetic.

Bottom line for Scenario B: if your work is mostly nailing and stapling, the air compressor 4hp 13 gallon works. If your work involves continuous air use, it won't, no matter what the box says.

Scenario C: Conduit Runs and the Correct Hole Saw for 3/4 PVC

Now for the question that drives a surprising amount of debate: what size hole saw for 3/4 PVC?

The short answer: for 3/4-inch PVC conduit through a stud or joist, use a 1-inch hole saw. If you need to pass a coupling or bell end through the hole, step up to 1-1/8 inches.

Here's why: 3/4 PVC conduit has an outside diameter of about 1.05 inches. A 7/8-inch hole is too tight, and a 3/4-inch hole saw—which matches the trade size—is way too small. A 1-inch hole gives you a snug, code-friendly fit. A 1-1/8 hole gives you clearance if there's a fitting on the pipe.

Most buyers focus on the trade size and completely miss the outside diameter. That's the classic blind spot. The trade size is a nominal reference, not the OD. If you're using schedule 40 PVC pipe rather than conduit, the OD can be different. So measure it before you drill. I dodged a bullet when I finally started testing hole saw sizes on scrap studs. The first time I didn't, the PVC conduit split in cold weather and I had to redo the whole run.

For the hole itself, a standard bimetal or carbide-tipped hole saw is fine. You don't need a specialized bit for PVC. What matters is backing up the wood with another piece of scrap so the backside stays clean, and drilling at moderate speed so the pipe edges don't chip.

Bottom line for Scenario C: 1 inch for a single PVC conduit run, 1-1/8 if you're passing a coupling, and always verify the actual OD of the pipe before you drill the final hole.

How to Decide Which Scenario Applies to You

If you're doing electrical panel work, start with Scenario A. If you're setting up a general service truck, start with Scenario B. If you're in the middle of a conduit installation, skip everything else and go with the 1-inch hole saw.

My experience is based on about 200 industrial and commercial maintenance jobs, mostly in Texas and the Southeast. If you're doing low-voltage work, residential service, or production electrical assembly, your specs might differ. That's okay. The principle is the same: name the constraint before you buy the tool. Time, safety, and air supply—those are the real decisions. The tool brand is just the last step.